2023 'Cobber Carbonic' Cabernet Shiraz

94 Points, The Real Review, Huon Hooke

Fruit is 100% sourced from a single 28 year old vineyard on the western edge of the Yarra Valley. In a normal year (?!) it's actually quite dry on this side of the Yarra, but in V22 the weather was cool and mild, with above average rainfall. So the weather presented challenges, but the vineyard showed it’s class, delivering unblemished Cabernet and Shiraz that benefitted from extended ‘hang time’ delivering fruit that fully ripened before picking in late March, 2022.

We’re always excited to work with new growers and fruit, and this vineyard is well managed with a strong palmares of wines, makers and viticulturalists providing history around fruit quality. The Gunn family bought this Kangaroo Ground property 2 years ago and asked if we’d like to take the fruit from their newly purchased vineyard?

“Hell yes” was the answer!

So the decision was easy and the bottled result is a cool reflection of the vineyard, varieties and Rouleur style.

Wanting to do something different, we set out to make a wine with typically finer bones - picked earlier and treated gently at the fermenter, there’s no ‘blockbuster’ here, just a seriously delicious, full flavored wine with modest alcohol and maximum intensity!

The Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon were picked on the same day; March 23, 2022. The greater portion of Cab was fully destemmed to an open fermenter, where wild yeast started fermentation after only 2 days. From here, we tipped whole bunches of Shiraz to a C02 gassed open pot, then wrapped it tightly with plastic, sealing completely and encouraging a fermentation technique known as carbonic maceration. After 6 days, the fermenting whole bunches of Shiraz were tipped atop the Cabernet. After another week on skins, we footstomped the whole bunch Shiraz, releasing that gorgeous ‘cab mac’ juice, increasing ferment vigor and encouraging the ferment to kick-on till sugar dryness.

Our new red blend remained on skins for another 5 weeks or so, tasting regularly, awaiting the perfect moment to drain and press. Gently, gently as always when pressing - ensuring only the finest juice and tannins were extracted and retained. A single new burgundian hogshead (18%) was used to compliment the wine - which remained in oak, on gross lees for 10 months prior to bottling.

So, how does it taste? A tightly wound nose that opens gradually. There's violets, plum and dried herbs. Hints of bramble and spice in sync with the fruit, adding complexity and style. This is a ‘moderately bunchy’ wine, there’s a candyness to the fruit, and nori at the same time. Palate is mid weight and long with dark cherries into lush red fruits with ribena-like mouth perfume too. The tannins are graphite and broadspread, while the acid is bright and mouth watering. Delicious now, but will cellar well over the next 7 years plus.

Alc Vol 13.3%, Ph 3.63, TA 5.8